Simple 1312 Assembly

FOR KITS ORDERED AFTER 10/23/13 - 1/15/14.

If you have a kit ordered before 10/23/13 with three small motors, see this guide.

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Step 1 Simple Maker's Edition v2 (Model 1312) Assembly  ¶ 

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Step 2  ¶ 

  • Your Printrbot Simple wooden pieces will come in 5 plates that you will then need to use a utility knife to separate.

  • You will use a utility knife to cut one side of the wood, flip over the plate, and cut through the opposite side of the tab.

  • Make sure to cut the plates apart on a surface that will be okay to have knife marks in it.

  • NOTE - Do not snap the pieces apart with your hands as the wood will tend to remove top or bottom layers of the plywood.

  • NOTE- You can use a nail file or sandpaper to smooth the connection points in the wood.

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Step 3  ¶ 

  • Zip tie your bearings on the base plate bringing the zip tie up through the bottom of the plate.

  • Where to put the nub of the zip tie? Place it in the exact placement as photo #2, toward the front of the Simple (green boxes).

  • 8 - zip ties

  • 4 - LM8UU Bearings

  • Tip - place 8mm smooth rod through the bearings as you tighten the zip ties to ensure alignment of bearings.

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Step 4  ¶ 

  • 2 - M2 10MM screws, end stop with 6" wiring, base

  • Use 1/16" or 1.5mm Allen Wrench to tighten these screws.

  • NOTE: The "gator mouth" is open towards the longer end of the base.

  • Take X-axis wiring under the base of the Simple.

  • Set this piece aside to begin a new step.

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Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use End Stop with 3 inches of wiring.

  • 2 - M2 10mm bolt

  • In order to get the end stop into position as shown in photo #2, you will need to take the opposite end of the end stop (white terminal end) and feed through the top of the slot in part #8 (red box).

  • Bring part #18 up through the bottom of part #8. This will allow the end stop to screw into part #18.

  • Tighten end stop onto wooden assembly with screws.

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Step 6  ¶ 

  • 2 - rubber tubing

  • 2 - sandpaper pulley

  • Dab some super glue onto the rubber tubing.

  • Place the sandpaper pulley onto the rubber tubing until it is flush with one side of rubber tubing.

  • Once dry move to next step.

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Step 7  ¶ 

  • Once dry, press the rubber tubing onto the motor shaft of one of your large motors. X axis will be a large motor and the Y axis will be a small motor.

  • NOTE - the X axis motor pulley will need to be pressed about 2-3mm past the motor shaft (red box). It is a good idea to label the motor for later steps in the build.

  • Be sure to zip tie the base of the rubber tubing onto the motor shaft to prevent slippage.

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Step 8  ¶ 

  • Go ahead and do the Y-axis (small) motor as well.

  • You have probably noticed that there are two small motors pictured in these instructions. You could have received one with a black connector and the shorter motor shaft OR yours could have a white connector and a longer motor shaft.

  • If your Y-axis motor has a black connector, you will want to push the black tubing all the way down on the motor shaft. Shown on the left, photo #2 - black square.

  • If your Y-axis motor has a white connectro, you will want to leave about 5mm of space on the bottom of the motor shaft. Shown on the right, photo #2.

  • Label your Y-axis motor.

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Step 9  ¶ 

  • 4 - M3 10mm bolt

  • X axis large motor

  • Attach motor to Part #9 with four M3 10mm bolts.

  • You will want to make sure that the wiring is going off of the left side of part #9 as shown in red box in photo #3.

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Step 10  ¶ 

  • 2 - M3 16mm

  • 2 - M3 Hex Nut

  • Secure part #9 to part #8 with two M3 16mm bolts and two M3 hex nuts.

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Step 11  ¶ 

  • 4 - M3 10mm bolt

  • 1 - large motor

  • Attach Z axis large motor onto part #8 with four M3 10mm bolts.

  • NOTE - Make sure the wiring is coming off the motor toward the middle in part #8. Now would be a good time to label the Z-axis motor.

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Step 12  ¶ 

  • 2 - M3 16mm bolt

  • 2 - M3 hex nut

  • Take X axis/Z axis assembly and mount onto part #7 with two M3 16mm bolts and two M3 hex nuts.

  • NOTE - Make sure to route the wiring for the X axis end stop through the hole in part #7 for the Z-axis motor, shown in photo #3 (red box).

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Step 13  ¶ 

  • Wiring Managment Step

  • Because there is so much length on the large motors, we will need to manage them so your Printrbot Simple looks nice and neat.

  • Individually wrap each motor's wires.

  • First make sure about 4-5 inches of length comes out of the hole on part #8 as shown in photo #2.

  • You can use three fingers for wrapping as shown in photo #1.

  • Zip tie each batch of wiring.

  • Take the Z axis' zip tied wires and press into the gap between the two motors, shown in photo #2.

  • Take X axis' zip tied wires and place on the side of both motors as shown in photo #3.

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Step 14  ¶ 

  • Attach power adapter onto plate (wood part #5) with zip tie.

  • You will want to back the nut on the power adapter off enough for the zip tie to fit in between the nut and the plastic housing.

  • Zip tie nub is on the same side as the power adapter. See photo #2.

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Step 15  ¶ 

  • Close in wiring from step 12 with part #5.

  • 5 - M3 16mm screws

  • 5 - M3 Hex Nuts

  • Make sure that the wiring for the power adapter is routed through the provided slot before securing with M3 screws (red box).

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Step 16  ¶ 

  • Attach part #6 with M3 16mm screws.

  • 5 - M3 16mm screws

  • 5 - M3 Hex Nuts

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Step 17  ¶ 

  • 4 - Zip ties

  • Before you zip tie the electronics board on to the wood it is easiest to connect the Power adapter (red box) and the Extruder Power (green box) while the board is loose.

  • Only use three zip ties at this point to attach electronics board (orange circles). You will attach the final corner later in this build.

  • NOTE: The zip ties do not need to be extremely tight. The Printrboard should be secure with snug zip ties, but too much tension could put undue stress on it.

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Step 18  ¶ 

  • Once base assembly is together, time to connect the two end stops to the electronics board.

  • The Z-axis end stop can be identified as the one with the 3" wiring, much shorter than the other end stops.

  • Connect the Z axis end stop to the electronics board "Z-STOP" (red box).

  • Connect the X axis end stop to the electronics board "X-STOP" (green box).

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Step 19  ¶ 

  • Install the 10" smooth rods.

  • Use hammer or rubber mallet to get smooth rods through the two wood plates.

  • Make sure to provide support under the bottom plate so you don't blow out the bottom of the plate, shown in photo #2.

  • Once the rods are seated flush with the bottom side of the base take two M3 10mm bolts to lock the bars in place. Photo #3.

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Step 20  ¶ 

  • 4 - M3 Hex Nut Locking

  • 1 - M3 10mm bolt

  • Screw the M3 10mm up from the bottom of the print platform. This screw hits the X-axis end stop so do not screw it all the way into the wood seating the head of the screw completely.

  • You will want to leave some length on the screw as shown in photo #3.

  • Take the four M3 locking hex nuts and press them into the bottom of the print platform in the engraved corners of the piece with a pair of pliers or channel locks evenly.

  • NOTE - Be sure to face the nylon portion of the locking hex nuts out of the wood.

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Step 21  ¶ 

  • 4 - Zip ties

  • 2 - 6.5" 8mm smooth rod

  • Make sure the M3 10mm bolt is on the left as you assemble the bed platform, shown in photo #3 (red box).

  • Nubs of the zip ties should be facing the center of the print platform.

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Step 22  ¶ 

  • 1 - M3 10mm bolt

  • 1 - M3 hex nut

  • Begin the fishing line installation with the right side (green box).

  • You will want to get your line with a knot to put on the head of the M3 10mm screw.

  • Create a loop and twist the line around itself a few times. Then bring the end back up through the loop.

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Step 23  ¶ 

  • 1 - Zip tie

  • 1 - M3 16mm bolt

  • 1 - M3 Hex Nut

  • Press the M3 hex nut into the engraved portion of wood piece with a pair of pliers or channel locks.

  • Slide #21 onto #22 as shown in photo #2.

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Step 24  ¶ 

  • Since you've already tied off the right side of your fishing line on the print platform, you will now measure 9-1/8 inches.

  • This length will the point at which you will tie off the new X axis tensioning assembly.

  • NOTE - Tie the knot on the bottom side of the tensioning assembly. This way it will clear below the print platform (Part #2).

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Step 25  ¶ 

  • Once you've tied off both sides, you will want to wrap the fishing line around the sandpaper pulley two full wraps.

  • If you've measured the line at 9-1/8 inches you should have to stretch the tensioning assembly onto the left side of the print platform.

  • Take the zip tie and secure the tensioning assembly onto the print platform using the slots at the end of the assembly.

  • Screw the M3 16mm bolt clockwise to tighten the fishing line to remove any slack in the line. (line should be fairly tight)

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Step 26  ¶ 

  • 4 - M3 20mm screws

  • 4 - bed springs

  • Attach #1 onto #2 with four 20mm M3 screws.

  • This is the print bed so you will want to space the two wood pieces with four bed springs.

  • Thread the four 20mm M3 screws into the M3 locking hex nuts pressed into #2.

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Step 27  ¶ 

  • 8 - LM8UU Bearings

  • 16 - Zip Ties

  • Zip tie nubs should all be on the same side of part #11.

  • Notice in photo #3 (green box) that the top left zip tie nub is in a different location than the rest. You will want to copy this assembly.

  • Tip - place 8mm smooth rod through the bearings as you tighten the zip ties to ensure alignment of bearings.

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Step 28  ¶ 

  • 4 - M3 10mm

  • Make sure motor wiring points down toward the base of the Simple.

  • This is the only axis that gets a small motor.

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Step 29  ¶ 

  • 2- M3 10mm screws

  • 2 - M3 Hex Nut

  • 2 - M3 16mm bolt

  • 1 - 6-32 3" screw w nylock nut

  • Attach part #17 onto #13 with one M3 16mm bolt and one M3 hex nut.

  • Then attach parts #17 and #13 to #12 with another M3 16mm and hex nut.

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Step 30  ¶ 

  • 2 - M3 10mm bolt

  • 1 - Delrin Acme Nut

  • 1 - 3" 6-32 bolt

  • 1 - 6-32 Hex Nut Locking

  • Attach Delrin Acme Nut onto part #12 with two M3 10mm bolts.

  • Screw 3" 6-32 bolt through part #12 first and then through part #17.

  • Put one 6-32 locking hex nut on the end of the 3" bolt.

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Step 31  ¶ 

  • Y-axis end stop installation.

  • 2 - 10mm M2 screws

  • Use a 1.5mm allen wrench to screw two M2 10mm bolts attaching Y axis end stop onto part #11.

  • Make sure the end stop opens up as your attaching it to #11, photo #2.

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Step 32  ¶ 

  • 3 - M3 16mm bolt

  • 3 - M3 Hex Nut

  • Make sure to route the Y axis end stop wiring down past the bearing as shown in photo #2.

  • Attach the delrin acme nut assembly onto #11 with three 16mm M3 screws and three M3 hex nuts, photo #3 (green circles).

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Step 33  ¶ 

  • 1 - 1/4" Acme rod

  • 1 - Vinyl Tubing

  • 1 - zip tie

  • Thread acme rod into vinyl tubing and secure with zip tie, photo #2.

  • Thread acme rod into delrin acme nut, photo #3.

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Step 34  ¶ 

  • 1 - M3 16mm screw

  • 1 - M3 hex nut

  • Insert E6 into #15 and secure with one 16mm M3 screw and M3 hex nut.

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Step 35  ¶ 

  • 3 - M3 16mm screw

  • 3 - M3 hex nut

  • Take the previous assembly and connect to #14 with three 16mm M3 screws and three M3 hex nuts.

  • Photos are color coated to show where they do with the different angles.

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Step 36  ¶ 

  • 3 - M3 16mm screw

  • 3 - M3 hex nut

  • Attach the previous assembly to #3 with three 16mm M3 screws and three M3 hex nuts.

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Step 37  ¶ 

  • 1 - M3 16mm screw

  • 1 - M3 Hex Nut

  • Attach #10 to #3 with one 16mm M3 screw and one M3 hex nut, photo #2.

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Step 38  ¶ 

  • 4 - M3 16mm bolt

  • 4- M3 Hex nut

  • Attach #4 to Y axis assembly with four M3 16mm bolts and four M3 hex nuts (red circles).

  • Take one zip tie and insert through small slot in #10 and then through small slot in #3, photo #2.

  • NOTE: Do not tie off the zip tie yet. Leave it open as pictured.

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Step 39  ¶ 

  • 2 - 6.5" 8mm Smooth Rod

  • Place Y-axis assembly onto Z-axis smooth rod, photo #1.

  • Insert the two 6.5" 8mm smooth rod into the horizontal bearings for Y-axis (red boxes).

  • Secure #3 to smooth rods with four zip ties, photo #3 (green boxes).

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Step 40  ¶ 

  • Take the clear vinyl tubing zip tied to the acme rod and press onto Z axis motor shaft.

  • Secure onto motor shaft with a zip tie, photo #2.

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Step 41  ¶ 

  • 1 - M3 10mm screw

  • 1 - M3 16mm screw

  • 2 - M3 Hex Nut

  • Fishing Line

  • Take one M3 hex nut and press into part #22 evenly.

  • Press #21 onto #22 and orient the pieces as shown in photo #3.

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Step 42  ¶ 

  • 1 - M3 10mm screw

  • 1 - M3 Hex Nut

  • Put 10mm M3 screw into hole on #3 (green circle) with M3 hex nut on opposite side of wood.

  • Tie two knots on the head of the M3 10mm bolt (same as the X axis).

  • Once completed with knots, tighten the 10mm M3 screw onto wood.

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Step 43  ¶ 

  • Measure 11-1/8 inches of fishing line to tie two knots on #22.

  • NOTE - It may be helpful to make a mark with a pen at 11-1/8 inches on the fishing line. Then you can use that mark as the place to tie #22 at rather than trying to hold a ruler while tying.

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Step 44  ¶ 

  • Wrap around the Y-axis sandpaper pulley two full times off the top of the pulley.

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Step 45  ¶ 

  • Place #22 at the end of #3 as shown in photo #1 and secure together with the zip tie already in place.

  • Tighten the zip tie on part #22.

  • Insert a M3 16mm bolt into the hex nut in #22 and turn clockwise to tighten fishing line.

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Step 46  ¶ 

  • Y-axis motor wiring plugs into "Y-MOT".

  • Z-axis motor wiring plugs into "Z-MOT"

  • X-axis motor wiring plugs into "X-MOT"

  • NOTE: Be sure to align wiring colors as pictured. If your motors are plugged in backwards, they will run in reverse.

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Step 47  ¶ 

  • Another picture of X-MOT and Y-MOT

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Step 48  ¶ 

  • 4 - M3 16mm

  • Use 2.5mm Allen Wrench to tighten fan onto wooden piece from the back of the fan into the wood

  • NOTE - Pay attention to the orientation of what direction the fan wiring is coming of the fan as you screw together and that the sticker is facing away from #16 for proper airflow.

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Step 49  ¶ 

  • Run fan and large Kysan (extruder) motor wiring through the slot in #15.

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Step 50  ¶ 

  • Take threadlocker blue glue and squeeze a small amount onto the extruder gear set screw. This will ensure it remains tight on the extruder motor shaft while printing.

  • Use a 1/16" Allen Wrench to tighten set screw.

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Step 51  ¶ 

  • In order to make sure the drive gear is properly positioned on the extruder motor shaft, we provide you with a wooden guide.

  • Use the wooden square guide, #E14 to space the drive gear as shown in photo #2.

  • Tighten set screw on motor shaft with 1/16" Allen Wrench.

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Step 52  ¶ 

  • Stack the few wood layers of the extruder as shown in these photos with three M3 32mm screws.

  • Use #E1 as the base layer.

  • Stack #E2 onto E1.

  • Next Stack E3 and E4 onto E2 with 1/2" #2 nylon spacer in between E3 and E4, photo #3.

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Step 53  ¶ 

  • Stack E5 onto the previous layer which will box in the nylon spacer.

  • NOTE - Make sure the 1/2" #2 Nylon spacer is flush with the bottom of the wood as shown in photo #2 (red box).

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Step 54  ¶ 

  • Go ahead and secure the wooden assembly onto the extruder motor with the three M3 32mm bolts.

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Step 55  ¶ 

  • Super glue

  • Photo #1 - dry fit together these three pieces. Do not use any glue in this photo. You want E10 to be free to rotate.

  • Photo #3 - Fit assembly from photo #1 into part #16. You will want to use super glue in the joinery.

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Step 56  ¶ 

  • 1 - M5 16mm Screw

  • 1 - 625ZZ Bearing

  • Wood pieces are labeled "A" and "B".

  • "A" piece has a slightly larger hole to accept the M5 16mm screw. Enter through "A".

  • "B" has a slightly smaller hole so the M5 16mm can thread into the wood.

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Step 57  ¶ 

  • Super glue E11 onto the E7 parts.

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Step 58  ¶ 

  • 1 - 11/16" Nylon Spacer

  • 1 - M3 32mm

  • Attach this assembly onto the extruder assembly.

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Step 59  ¶ 

  • 1 - 2.5" 6-32 Screw

  • 1 - 3/4" Spring

  • 1 - 6-32 Hex Nut (Locking)

  • Place the 2.5" 6-32 screw with spring through the slot in E11, photo #2.

  • Then attach the fan assembly to the extruder by inserting the remaining length of the 2.5" screw through the slot of E10 and tighten onto one 6-32 locking hex nut.

  • Use either a 5/16" or 8mm wrench to tighten the locking hex nut.

  • NOTE: The 6-32 nylock should be fully threaded onto the 2.5" 6-32 screw, but not much further than that. See photo #3.

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Step 60  ¶ 

  • 1 - 1.75mm Hot end

  • 2 - M3 20mm Screws

  • First set the hot end inside the circular slot.

  • Once placed inside slot secure with two M3 20mm screws.

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Step 61  ¶ 

  • Plug extruder motor wiring into "E-MOT", making sure that the plug is flipped opposite of the other three axes.

  • See photo #2 for a diagram of the board with full wiring. Note that the extruder motor, "E-MOT" is wired backwards or "flipped opposite" - BLUE, YELLOW, GREEN, RED - top to bottom.

  • If the extruder wiring does not match this picture the filament will be pushed out of the extruder rather than pulled down into the hot end.

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Step 62  ¶ 

  • Take the hot end power lead and plug into power extension.

  • Plug hot end power extension into "EXTRUDER" on board.

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Step 63  ¶ 

  • Take thermistor lead from the hot end (clear insulation) and plug into thermistor extension (black and white insulation).

  • Plug thermistor extension into "T-EXT" on board.

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Step 64  ¶ 

  • Plug fan extension into "FAN" port on printrboard.

  • Having trouble connecting the fan cable to the fan extension? click here

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Step 65  ¶ 

  • Take a zip tie and take all of the wiring. Secure them together with the zip tie to part #E5.

  • Time to organize cabling with cable wrap.

  • It is VERY IMPORTANT to secure the hot end power and thermistor with the zip tie, particularly if you were supplied with a cartridge style hot end in your kit. This step alleviates stress on the fracture point of the hot end.

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Step 66  ¶ 

  • Simple build finished. Great job! You're not quite done though. There are a couple more steps on your journey to 3D printing glory. ...I know, it is sort of like beating a level in Mario Bros, when the bad guy runs off with the Princess again.

  • See the Getting Started Guide for info on software settings and other tips.

  • Make 3D printing friends. JOIN OUR FORUM! It's a great place to discuss your build, get troubleshooting help, and share your own insights. We would love to see you become part of our community!

Comments Comments are onturn off

There are some steps missing, like someone got tired of making words halfway through. I got it done, but I hope they revise soon!

Julia Sleazer, · Reply

Agree Julia. This guide was lacking.

Also, step or two and/or picture or two missing, had to use to fill in the missing gaps.

Needs revision!!!

Andrij Harasewych, · Reply

Thank you for the feedback about the guide. We want to improve these instructions in areas where they fall short. Can you be more specific on the areas of the guide that we could revise and improve? We will be quick to fix them once we hear back from you.

Brook Drumm,

Hi folks: Just got this kit for the holiday and have not built, just read this once. Some specific questions already posted.

Suggestions overall:

1) give a name to each step, so we know what we're building

2) avoid references to "top" or "front" etc., since it's almost always unclear until the build is complete. If the side matters, provide a visual cue that's in the picture for us to focus on

3) For each and every step, list the materials used in that step _only_, including raw parts and the assembled bits from step X or with name shown for step X. Make sure you've described how each piece will be used. Otherwise we don't know if the piece if for a later step, or the instructions about how to use the piece were omitted.

nogginhead, · Reply

I just completed my Simple, and here's a few suggestions for new builders/improving the guide:

1. Do all the glue steps first. That way the glue can dry/set and the assemblies can be ready when you need them. This is not as important if you use cyanoacrylate/super glue. I chose to use a more flexible adhesive on the sandpaper tubes/vinyl tubing step, and used wood glue for the extruder sub-assemblies.

2. Group the steps into assemblies and provide more information on what the part is and where it ends up on the finished printer. It's very hard to picture this without having built one first. I recommend an exploded diagram for each group of sub-assembly steps, or a photo of the finished printer with the current assembly highlighted.

3. Name parts in addition to the numbers. This would also aid in understanding what each part is and where it goes. "Base assembly, top" is clearer than just #8.

4. Check the previous version of this guide. Certain steps are documented better there. Combine with this version.

Frank, · Reply

Completed, I got the printrbot as a gift so I wasn't clear that I got the printrbot with the three large motors. I also wasn't sure if it was ordered before or after 10/23 which were choices in selecting the directions. As a result I started with the wrong directions. It might help to have a model number printed on the laser cut base so you know precisely which model it is.

Wainright Samuel, · Reply

I also agree with some of the comments about the guide. I can't pinpoint the the images that lead me wrong but somehow I got the stepper and limit switches for Y and Z axis reversed during the build. Y axis drive thread was very difficult to get installed with proper tightness. The tensioner design works well for the X axis but not as well for Y axis. The build guide should also mention that the X and Y axis limit switches pretty much set themselves up but you must set the Z axis set screw. It took me a while to figure out when configuring the software why the Z axis wouldn't go home.

After running a half dozen or so printouts and tightening everything up I have to say I'm impressed with the output. Also if you are mechanically inclined at all I would recommend the kit. I would have been less inclined to take it apart and adjust the things I did if I got the unit prebuilt.

Wainright Samuel, · Reply

Great Build. Lot's of fun. It's like Lego's for big kids. The entire build took me about 6-7 hours divided over three nights. The one suggestion I have:

1. leave the pieces together and cut them free as needed. It helps keep everything organized, so you don't lose small pieces.

Matthew Spurk, · Reply

Thoughts about cutting apart the wooden pieces: a razor doesn't work very well. The gap between the pieces are very narrow and I found my blade getting caught more often than not.

Ended up taking the hit on twisting. :/

Side note: a nail file or a narrow flat file works wonders on smoothing out the connection nubs between pieces.

The smell from the laser cut burn pieces had alot of resin and made the room smell a bit.

Wing Wong, · Reply

I'll second Wing Wong's comment. I ended up using a flat ended exacto blade I had that is shaped like a very thin chisel. I put this in a large handle and used a rubber mallet to tap it into one side then the other. Much faster than the utility knife. The only issue I had with this was that the blade would catch on removal and separate the outer layer of plywood on some cuts.

Frank, · Reply

that or use a dremel tool with a thin cut-off disc... it will smell a bit however ;)

martin, · Reply

I had success using the utility knife to cut at least into the first layer of wood on both sides then gingerly twisting back and forth.

Charlie Molthrop, · Reply

for those who own or have access to a scroll saw with a very thin blade, that works very well and makes very quick work of separating the pieces. Maybe those connecting tabs could be made much thinner

Bill, · Reply

X-acto #235 V-Tooth Coarse Saw Blade.

Can be bought for less than $10. The perfect tool. Razor thin, sharp and easy to get into tight spots. Takes just a few swipes on both sides to separate everything. They sell it in a kit with a miter box but you can get it separately for cheaper.

Kurt, · Reply

Photo 2 doesn't actually show where to place the nub. This does:

note also, phrases like "toward the front of the Simple" are less than useful to the novice builder

Colin Cooper, · Reply

Be careful when tightening the zip ties on the bearings towards the front, the line of holes for the zip ties, combined with the slots for the anchors for the sides makes a weak line in the plywood. When I tightened one of my zip ties, there was a cracking noise, and the plywood was slightly bent at this line. After attaching the sides, it seems fine, and if there is any residual warp, I'm sure I can compensate by adjusting the bed offsets, but I would feel better if I hadn't applied the wrong forces in the first place.

Brian Kofford, · Reply

I was able to compensate for the slight warp by adjusting the offsets. Printing worked fine on the first try, but the offsets towards the front are tightened visibly more than the ones in the back, probably due to the warping caused by this.

Brian Kofford,

Zip ties: a pair of needle nose pliers does wonders for tightening them up. This particular size of zip tie is also easy to find at the local hardware and convenience stores. Great choice!

Side note, after all was done, I still had a few zip ties left over for tidying up cables. +1

Wing Wong, · Reply

One caution that isn’t called out enough in the instructions, the base plate (and many of the parts) are not symmetrical. Look carefully at the pictures to avoid putting things together backwards.

Andrew Low, · Reply

Use End Stop with MORE THAN 3 inches of wiring

Colin Cooper, · Reply

The instructions interchangeably call them screws or bolts, this should be addressed. I personally think of them as bolts.

Andrew Low, · Reply

The z-stop here turned out to be a bit wiggly on me. I've left it as-is, since the pressure is downward and the piece just holds it in about the right place. But I may insert a shim to make sure there is less wiggle for repeatability. I would not use glue, since I may need to replace the switch at some point in time down the road.

Wing Wong, · Reply

Instead of super glue, I used e6000/e6800 adhesive, which is less "hard" like super glue and more "tough" like stiff rubber. It cleans up easier and I'm not fearful of getting it on my fingers.

Wing Wong, · Reply

This is the first glue step, but in general the glue steps could all be done much earlier in the build process. A hint at the start to look ahead for glue steps and perform them now so they glue can dry would be a good idea.

Also the 'super glue' is expected to bond metal to plastic & wood to wood. Not all super glues will do this. Being more specific on the type of glue might help. (a link to Amazon?)

Andrew Low, · Reply

Getting it down 1mm below the tip took some work. Perhaps if a piece of laser cut wood with a hole just the right dimension for the pole and to push down the rubber piece, would be nice, like the spacer for the hobbed nut.

Wing Wong, · Reply

The rubber tubing fits tight over the motor shaft, you will not be able to push it on by hand. Get a rubber mallet and a 1/4" deep socket. It will clear the shaft but won't damage the sandpaper as you tap it on.

Aaron, · Reply

Tried Gordon's idea but even a hammer on a 1/4 socket wouldn't make it budge. I eventually put a little soap on the shaft and it slid right on. Hope the soap won't end up making it slip.

max resnick, · Reply

We put a nut over the rubber piece that had a hole bigger than the shaft diameter. Then we used a C-clamp and it easily moved the rest of the way down the shaft. This was after we failed to accomplish the task by pushing down with a socket driver.

Sean, · Reply

I used a drop of windex and a pair of needlenose pliers to push from the top . This is used by bicycle shopsto out on handgrips after It drieste rubberwill not move.

Toby Trevett, · Reply

Label the X and Z motor plugs. In a later step (12), after you have bundled the cables together and pulled them through the hole, this will help you figure out which one plugs where.

Gordon, · Reply

Good tip Gordon! I labeled each cable end as I went and it made connecting everything much easier toward the end. Regards!


If you forget to label the motor wires, disconnect either X or Z and then turn one off them; with no power on the board, the green led will turn on for the one still connected as the motor acts as a generatot.

Jonathan Peace,

Routing that cable through the opening was a bit of a pain, since I missed it. Not the end of the world, however, as you could just rout it along the bottom and bring it up the back. In hindsight, I think I would have preferred that, as it would avoid any cables running up against the stepper motors.

Wing Wong, · Reply

And don't route the wrong end stop wire through!

Rick Martens, · Reply

By the time the terminals are plugged into the circuit board, the motors are completely enclosed and it can be quite hard to tell the x- and z-motor terminals apart. I suggest at this stage marking the z-axis terminal with insulation tape or similar.

Mark Fulford, · Reply

Agree with this. Either instruct the assembler to mark the motor connectors or instruct to connect at least one (x or z) prior to completing the enclosure.

Trung Nguyen,

Thanx for this tip Mark. I personally used the utility blade I had handy to lightly scribe an "X" on the back of the plastic connector for that motor.


Instead of tying up the cables all in the space between the stepper motors, I opted to run them completely out and have them bundled/tied up on the side of the unit, just outside near the printrboard.

Rationale: airflow to the stepper motors may become impeded. Also, if you plan on upgrading to the XL later, you wouldn't need to try extracting the wires again. I'm also planning on moving the printrboard so it is facing outward, so access to the various port pins will be easier. As much as I like the Printrbot logo, I like having access to the board pins more. :)

Wing Wong, · Reply

could you specify which number wooden plate this is.

Josh Marinacci, · Reply

I messed this up the first time I tried and had to re-do it. I even tried to take a better picture to explain things and failed.

There needs to be a better description of the zip-tie and the nut. What you're trying to do is back the nut off on the collar just far enough to put the zip tie in that gap.

Andrew Low, · Reply

This is wooden piece #5 FYI

Aaron, · Reply

Please add that the black and yellow cable need to also be put in the right location like the red and black wire, the yellow and black cable cannot reach its intended location if its not on the same side as the mother board"or what ever you call it, I'm no expert". I did this and had to un screw it again, also my panel did not fit into place, it had to have one square protrusion shaved, I sometimes act basely and I almost snapped my panel because i was forcing it.

abizarew, · Reply

I just got my kit and had a mis-located hole. The hole on piece 5 on the skinny leg didn't line up with the nut slot on piece 7. I just drilled a hole next to it and it was fine. Piece 9 is fine.

Matthew Spurk, · Reply

The 2nd side panel had some kind of laser cut error or warp on mine. I had to reduce the size of the wooden slot peg in the center a bit to get the board in place. The front left corner ended up being short, which seconds my suspicions that it was a mis-cut or warpage on that piece of wood. Not a show stopper, just something to note.

Wing Wong, · Reply

It is worth adding a hint to carefully press the wires down and out of the way in order to allow the panel to fit on. The more attention you pay to wire management, the easier the assembly will go.

Also as another comment suggested, I will recommend that people label with tape one of the two motor wires so they know which is X and which is Z.

Andrew Low, · Reply

On my kit, one hole in part #6 was in the wrong place. I drilled an 1/8 inch hole about 3/16" over to line up with the slot for the nut.

rotus8, · Reply

I found attaching the extruder cable first, then the power cable was easiest.

Also, as the circuit board doesn't lie perfectly flat against the wood, you need to go easy on the zip ties. No need to bend the circuit board. I'd suggest "barely snug" as the amount to tighten them.

Andrew Low, · Reply

I recommend just leaving the board loose until all the cables are connected. I cut free all three of these zip-ties at the end and installed new. It made it easier to plug in the power and extruder power switch and I could tie more wires out of the way.

Matthew Spurk, · Reply

Please indicate which cord is which. Simply saying X or Z stops isn't enough since I'm not yet familar with the layout. Perhaps: short and long yellow and black cables.

Josh Marinacci, · Reply

As Josh says, it would help to clearly identify which is which. I'm assuming z is the one pointing up.

Colin Cooper, · Reply

Make sure you position the block under the bottom end of the rod. It is very easy to let it slip out of position and pound the rod out the bottom of the base.

TIP: you can push the rod back into place by placing a small socket (smaller than the diameter of the rod) on the end of the rod, then place a small block on top of the socket so that it extends out on either side, and is inside the plywood side piece. Place two clamps on the block, on either side of the rod, clamping the block and the plywood assembly. Slowly tighten the clamps at the same rate. This pushes the socket onto the rod end, and pushes the rod back into place without harming the wood parts.

Frank, · Reply

Step 21 says to use an M3 nut, but doesn't say where to put it.

Pete Stark, · Reply

I noticed on some of these steps, it does and doesn't, show the intended parts, example showing the screws next to something so we know the size, for some of us its disconnecting, for example I have no ruler to measure the exact screw length but with an image I am able to estimate and have an idea, if not I have to sort of guess as I have no reference, result is I put in the wrong screws and have to back track to see where I put them.

abizarew, · Reply

Please note that the M3 Hex Nut is installed onto the bolt but not shown. I was wondering why my bolt was loose, then the nut magically appeared 2 steps later!

Aaron, · Reply

The words in the instructions don't appear to describe the pictures, and the pictures don't match with the other photos of the string on the bolt. Can you provide more photos of the knots and a close-up of the finished string tied to the bolt?

nogginhead, · Reply

The comments describe a "green box." This is a leftover from the prevision version's instructions (for units built before 10/23/13). However, if you look at those set of instructions, the photo (with the green box) shows the M3 x 10 hex bolt and nut and how the string is attached nicely.

Lloyd Cross, · Reply

Please add '1 ft ruler' to the list of tools you should have at the top.

Josh Marinacci, · Reply

Make sure you use the same knot as shown in Step 21. Then I made a square knot after it for peace of mind.

Aaron, · Reply

9.125" between what and what? Knot and knot? Tensioner and wood on other end?

nogginhead, · Reply

I definitely had to make my string 9-3/4" long knot to knot before wrapping it around the sandpaper drum 2 times. NOT 9-1/8"

Erik Elmore, · Reply

Im getting separation between the two full wraps of rope when i manually move the operations from left to right, does this make a difference later? Ive tried to wrap it as tight and close together as possible but when I move the board left to right it starts overlapping and changing its position. Im just worried so that i don't have to back track.

abizarew, · Reply

I like this tensioner. It worked like a charm for me. If I were to design one, though, I would go with a winch type mechanism, so that I could go from totally slack to totally taught. The getting the string onto the sand paper roller would have been SO much easier had there been a lip to the pulley. If mine ever comes off(and from the test movements, I doubt it will), I'll add on sides.

Wing Wong, · Reply

There should be a gauge block or some measure of how much space should remain between the bed and the print platform. How much should the springs be compressed?

Trung Nguyen, · Reply

Are the springs now black?

Dave Narbaitz, · Reply

If you have trouble seating the screws into the lock nuts. (mine were not quite aligned right). Try removing the #1 plate and threading the problematic bolts part way – the mis-alignment should be obvious. Then you can push the bolt upright to align it better.

Andrew Low, · Reply

NOTE: the reason for the springs here is to allow you to level the print bed. As you are printing if you notice minute differences in how the head presses against the printbed- tighten or loosen the screws to get an even print

Gordon, · Reply

Also make sure you bolt the print bed on correctly. It does have a front and should square up perfectly with #2.

Erik Elmore, · Reply

This first picture only shows 8 plastic zip ties.

abizarew, · Reply

Photo #1 is for Step 28 & 29. The long bolt on the picture is the 3" one.

Nicolas Pommereau, · Reply

Thanks for the heads up Nicolas. We have edited this step

Printrbot Support,

I didn't get part #13 in my kit. After 30 minutes of cursing (I live in Venezuela and just having that piece shipped here would've cost me an eye and a leg) I realized I could just finish assembling the printr without that part, print it and then re-assemble, which I did succesfully. Although, it would've been easier if I could've had access to the stl file to begin with. The whole process to get the part done took me half a day.

Later I realized that this part was used in the Z axis calibration. I somehow managed to do this succesfully but it would be nice if there was an official explanation of the procedure somewhere around here.

Castor Milano, · Reply

Picture #1 is a bit missleading. The 2 10mm M2 bolts are not on it. This picture is for step 31.

Nicolas Pommereau, · Reply

The M2 10MM screws are used to attach the end stop in photo 2 of this step. I hope that helps

Printrbot Support, · Reply

Yes it would be nice to have a picture with all the screws necessary.

abizarew, · Reply

Also please note that you need to tuck the yellow and black wire on the side closet to the edge of the square, if not you'll have to unscrew it all again so that its put right, the rods go into the bearing but they snag on the wires.

abizarew, · Reply

I gather the non-tubing end goes into the nut? How much gets threaded?

nogginhead, · Reply

The tubing should go on far enough to hold onto the worm screw. The free end of the tubing will be going over one of the motor shafts later, make sure there is enough to grab both.

Riven Craft, · Reply

I haven't part #15, exists another piece layout?

Mersobap, · Reply

The new 2014 model of the printrbot seems to miss part 15 and use other parts instead. Please update or change the guide so users do not get confused. Took me a while to figure out. I finally used pictures of the new model to figure out assembly myself (and I think I am still not using a part that should be there)

Bart, · Reply

We have had the same issue; clarification in the instructions would be *very* welcome here.

Sean McMains,

I have the same problem with piece 15. How I resolve this?

Mersobap, · Reply

I'm sorry we missed part 15! You can submit a broken/missing ticket at this link.

We'll get it to you asap!

Printrbot Support,

the 2014 edition kit ships with the aluminum extruder update, so part 1 replaces part 15 and E6 isn't necessary. I had to look at the aluminum extruder upgrade guide to figure that out

coolguy46112, · Reply

Use the Maker Edition Guide instead. This should work better if you have a kit ordered after 1/1/2014.

Printrbot Support,

Before step 32, the assembly of parts #14 and #15 have not been described. They have to go in at this stage, before #4 is added.

Mark Fulford, · Reply

Thank you Mark for pointing out an oversight in our instructions. We have added steps for the parts you mentioned.

Brook Drumm,

Steps 36 and 37 could really benefit from having a zoomed out 3rd angle projection. Something that shows the whole assembly in an isometric view.

Matthew Spurk, · Reply

Looks like the steps for adding parts E6, #14, and #15 are missing. Found procedure on a set of previous instructions (same as the link Andrij went to), steps #41 and #42.

ginaria, · Reply

do not tie the zip tie! and if you do don't cut off the tail or you won't fit the later steps. please note this because not every one knows that you can untie a zip tie or if they cut it short thinking that was the step they'll need an extra zip tie.

abizarew, · Reply

The next step - securing the threaded rod to the Z-axis motor - really should be done immediately after sliding the Y-axis assembly on to the Z-axis smooth rods. So step 40 should happen in between the first and second photos in step 39.

Dave, · Reply

This should be 2-3 steps: mount Y-axis rods and assembly to bearing, then add to rood on the printer body.

nogginhead, · Reply

Is it okay if I'm using the same rope from before? Step 24 should include the fact that you will need to ensure you have rope left over for Step 41.

Ross, · Reply

Define "top" here, and please show additional photos of where the ends of the string are at this point?

nogginhead, · Reply

I dont understand what the ruler is suppose to imply? with the string attached and lapped over the motor, it measures at a little more than 8"1/8, it would be helpful to know what spot you are measuring.

abizarew, · Reply

It's hard to tell which side of the plywood the string is supposed to come out on. Pictures make it look like the front, but back makes more sense.

I put the zip tie in backward in step #38, and discovered it's not so bad to put one in here: bend the tip of the zip tie a bit to point in the direction you need it to go. Then slip an old zip tie end through the front of the y-axis assembly and push the new zip tie in from the side-- the old tie will force it through the front.

nogginhead, · Reply

The old instructions have a nice picture of which way is up -- it would be nice to include it here.

ginaria, · Reply

it would also be nice if there were a label on the wire ends of the motor with y or x, once you have the motors put in the bottom you cannot really tell which wire belongs to which motor.

abizarew, · Reply

can you please add a image to better visualize what motor and the location of it.

abizarew, · Reply

Went to mount the fan and found I was missing a 16mm T3 screw. Fortunately I had an extra 20mm one which I swapped out for the tensioner screw.

Vinoh, · Reply

Ran out of 16mm M3 bolts/screws at this step. Only had one of the four required.

Randy King, · Reply

Only have 2 16mm left...please fix this!

Aaron, · Reply

Same here :(


Only had 3 16mm screws left, too. I used Vinoh's trick of swapping out the tensioner screw from step 45 with a 20mm screw, which I appear to have one extra of, as well. It works out better, because I had more slack in the line and needed a longer screw anyway.

Grant Zurko, · Reply

I only had 1 screw as well.. I'm not sure what to do now..

Dane Tuso, · Reply

i also ran out of 16 mm screws.

I only secured the fan with 3 screws, instead of 4 and substituted the screws in the tensioner's screws with scavenged ones from my tool box. i will go to the hardware store to buy the missing ones today

the BOM lists 33 16 mm screws, but the instruction require 37.

I am guessing they didn't update the initial list when they added the fan?

apparently some kits have 'extra' screws, which can compensate (in part) for the missing ones. it likely accounts for the variable number of screws people are missing.

in general, count the screws at the beginning, and if they are <37, buy a few extra ones at your local hardware store before starting the build.

Luca, · Reply

I have only 3 16mm for the fan. Took the 16mm from step 45. There should be extra screws included just in case.

Ross, · Reply

Two left. Will swap out form the tensioners... maybe include a source for obtaining extra screws if needed?

nogginhead, · Reply

Probably do step 55 before going on to step 49.

nogginhead, · Reply

Consider doing this step just before step 54, you'll want to get the drive gear mounted before this motor is sitting on the extruder mount.

Andrew Low, · Reply

1/16 Allen Wrench? Why this one not metric part/tool? Now I have to go to Home Depot.

Randy King, · Reply

Photo is very unclear. Please show a new close-up without fingers or tool obscuring where the glue goes.

nogginhead, · Reply

You should remove the instruction to "tighten" the set screw-- that comes in the next step.

nogginhead, · Reply

The smaller piece of wood was a different cut out than the directions, it was basically the same except for the protruding part.

abizarew, · Reply

Mine as well!! The piece doesn't have the tail bit on mine. This sucked up a good deal of time.

Also, it was confusing as to which nylon tube I needed since my 11/16" tube turned out to be 2 5/16" tube pieces, so I kept assembling and taking apart this piece. :(

Wing Wong,

My E1 was missing one of the holes for the motor mounting screw. Easy enough to drill but very odd given that the drawing and picture shows the hole. I wonder if I got some kind of preproduction version of the updated kit from Amazon since I am also missing one of the E9 pieces.

Vinoh, · Reply

Same here, very annoying :(


Same here: E4 in my laser cut wood was not as pictured.

Randy King, · Reply

Same here :(


Guys (or gals), I am sorry to hear that so many of you are missing or having trouble with existing extruder pieces. Please submit a broken/missing ticket so that we can get you what you need.

If your wood is stacking to thick for the extruder to align, we can get you set up with a new set of slightly thinner wood.

Printrbot Support, · Reply

E5 is missing a hole in the lower right corner (when oriented as depicted in the parts list). Simple to drill a new hole, however there must be a flaw in the laser cutting process causing this hole to be missed.

E4, because it is depicted in this part list as well without the protruding "boot" - I am assuming it is a change in design, hence my (and others') slight difference in this part.

And while I am at it, the link located at Step 52 (page down to comments link) malfunctions and pages down to step 5 rather than step 52.


Matt H, · Reply

Steps 52, 53, 54. First, like some other people, my E4 was missing its tail, and the nylon tube was two nylon tubes, but that isn't my major problem.

Either the 4 32mm silvery screws are too short, or something else is wrong. If I take off the extruder body, put the motor in place and push the hot end in place, it all lines up. But with the extruder in place, the nylon guide tube won't line up with the hot end, or the knurled nut on the extruder motor, by about the same amount the bolts are too short. I have a LONG PDF document, with dozens of annotated photos, if that would help.

I bought some 38mm screws and washers: everything then screws together ... but the filament path isn't aligned, and the hot end doesn't fit.

So we had to have Xmas dinner without 3D printed name tags to mark our places at the table. :-(

James Hardiman, · Reply

I mentioned yesterday that I am having problems around steps 52-54. I have now documented this, and posted LOADS of pictures, here:

James Hardiman, · Reply

I'm having the same issue as above. My E4 piece is missing its tail and my plastic tube is way too long. Also its has too large of a diameter and wont let the wood pieces fit flush around it.

James Covey, · Reply

It turned out that all my problems were due to out-of-spec plywood. The Simple is designed to be made from 6mm ply. Mine was 6.5mm (possibly out-of-spec 1/4" ... which is 6.35mm).

On most of the machine it doesn't matter, but dimension is critical in the extruder, where there are a stack of five pieces.

I fixed my problem by laboriously sanding down piece E5 until everything worked ... and I used M3 x 35mm machine screws, with M3 washers (bought from Atomik-RC). I wouldn't recommend this as a fix for everyone!

I notice that they are retiring this extruder on 2014-Jan 6 ... I look forward to seeing what they replace it with (and I want one, hint hint!)

James Hardiman, · Reply

My extruder looks like the missing hole was drilled but not perfectly aligned with the other laser cut holes causing the screw to not go in perfectly straight. I straightened it out with a drill, I'm having problems with the extruder not feeding the filament. I had to take the extruder off to troubleshoot which means you have to take the wire wrap off and cut the ties, plus taking out the hot-end I think the tension screws are starting to strip because they are only held in by the wood. I order the aluminum upgrade, so... Guess I will have to wait for that..

BitJunky, · Reply

I had filament feed problems as well. The alignment wasn't goo between the plastic tube and heating element. I removed that plastic tube and it worked great. Just leave that plastic tube out.

Also, tighten the screw on the tensioner assembly (thing that holds the fan).

Matthew Spurk, · Reply

Hard to believe, but I am missing one of the E9 pieces! I've looked carefully for it and am convinced it really is missing since the parts have been in the same place since I started working on it. I supposed it might be attached to another piece that I already used but that seems very unlikely that I would not have noticed. I happen to have taken a photo of the one of the original pieces before they were cut apart and I see one E9 but not the other. Does anyone know if both E9s were on the same sheet?

Vinoh, · Reply

Sorry about that! Please submit a broken/missing ticket and we'll get it out to you with a quickness.

Printrbot Support,

Thanks, I submitted the missing parts report yesterday. However, I just printed a replacement part and it works great; better than the original I think! The printer worked from the get go and has greatly exceeded my expectations. Thanks for such a terrific product!


Krazy glue did not work for me on this step (but it was good earlier on). I used epoxy which worked fine, but had additional drying time. Consider doing this glue step earlier in your build as the part is fairly independent.

Andrew Low, · Reply

Maybe have people do this part before feeding the connector through the hole? My fan is hanging by the motor, and it's on the awkward side.

nogginhead, · Reply

It isn't clear how tight the nut should be.

Colin Cooper, · Reply

Just get the lock nut fully engaged (just seeing the bolt come through the bottom), this bolt is used later for adjusting the extruder.

Aaron, · Reply

Okay, I would STRONGLY suggest that folks who get to this stage, BEFORE setting in place with the 2 screws to make sure:

1) the small piece of wood on the side isnt' blocking the opening to let the hot end completely seat itself into the well.

2) Use some of the filament to make sure that a clear path can be had from the top, through the hobbed nut, through the nylon tube, and into the hot end entry aperture. On mine, after I assembled the entire head, I found the filament path to be mis-aligned. Will need to redo.

Suggestion to Printrbot:

For the extruder mechanism, use transparent plastic! This would make alignment and debugging of this head mechanism so much easier!

Also, the silicone sleeve and the fiberglass padding are kind of loose, so when inserting the hot end into the well, it is possible to push the sleeve up/down. :( Since the thermister leads are VERY thin, this could cause breakage.

Wing Wong, · Reply

It's worth noting that the resistance of the filiment sliding into the hot end is noticeably greater than the resistence sliding through the rest of the mechanism. I pulled mine apart convinced that I had it misaligned only to figure out that I just wasn't pushing hard enough. Obviously the 'just push harder' logic can go badly wrong if it is misaligned, but it is worth sliding the filiment into the hot end before assembling just to get a feel for what to expect.

Dave, · Reply

Wing Wong, what small piece of wood do you mean in point 1? I can't get the hot end to secure in the hole.

The 2 screws that are supposed to do that aren't really doing anything! I've checked with filament, and I think I have a clear passage from the top down to the hot end (can see a pinprick of light when everything's aligned, but even by holding the hot end hard against the panel from which it protrudes, when I add the screws and take my hand away, the hot end drops down. I can see the top, bigger indent. It's only holding there by luck and comes away in my hand when I touch it.

Can anyone help me here, please? Thank you! :)

Jenny Smith, · Reply

Jenny Smith: The E4 piece from step 53 can be loose and jam up the hole where you put the hot end. I was able to loosen a single screw (lower right one) on piece E1, put my finger into the hole where the hot end goes (it helps if you turn the whole thing upside down), move E4 clear, and then retighten the screw.

Kevin Haw, · Reply

Please define"flipped opposite".

Steve Simpson, · Reply

Seems to mean blue wire at top.

Colin Cooper,

For the flipped opposite, I missed this. So my extrude=retract and vice versa. Will flip and test.

Note, would be helpful to add a note here to indicate that when folks try to test extrusion/retraction, the printerboard/firmware won't do that unless the hot end is hot and up to temperature. I understand this is a safeguard to prevent jamming/etc, but useful to list it here.

Spent a bit of time kajiggering cables wondering what was short/broke, until I saw the easy to miss error at the bottom of the scrolling screen indicating that extrusion/retraction motor won't activate unless hot end at temp. Doh!

Wing Wong, · Reply

I followed the hint way back on step 17 to connect the extruder extension cable - then on this step I spent 5 minutes looking for the 'missing' extension cable - only to discover it was already attached to the circuit board!

Andrew Low, · Reply

First of all, I didn't get the two screws for this step. Second of all, the screws aren't holding it in. It's kind of wobbly when get it to stay in at all. I don't know whats up with this step.

Melissa Anthony, · Reply

Melissa, are you still missing screws? If so, please submit a ticket so that we can get you taken care of. thanks, pb

Printrbot Support,

Sorry, this was for step 58.

Melissa Anthony, · Reply

The spacing for the pins is off, and I can't fit them together.

Cabel Soune, · Reply

Clearly these connectors are not compatible. Assembly was going great until this step broke the pins and forcd me to hack it with a soldering gun. That is silly. This step needs improvement plain and simple.

Richard Foley, · Reply

By the end of the build the y-axis end stop and the x- and z-axis motors have not been connected to the circuit board. Not hard to work out where they go but would be nice to have certainty ;-)

Also, is it correct that the E-STOP connector remains unused?

Mark Fulford, · Reply

It feels like there are a few steps missing at the end. I was never told to install E-STOP, or the X and Z axis. Also, I had to loosen the hot end so I could twist it. This twist is required to take up a bit of wire slack to look like it does in your photo. The correct orientation of the hot end should be shown as part of the setup. I finished it though!

Josh Marinacci, · Reply

Also, a photo of the final board wiring would be great so we can visually check the setup.

Josh Marinacci, · Reply

Yay! Total time to complete mine: 9.5 hours broken out into three sessions over the coarse of one day.

Mistakes I found on powering up and trying to "home" my axises:

1) the z-home bolt should have been fully in, I ended up ramming my hot end head into the bed! Unplug! Manually turn the z-axis screw drive to raise the head. Place a piece of paper under the head and manually turn the z-axis screw drive until the tip of the head just touches the paper with a slight bit of friction when you are moving the paper. With the head in that position, use a screw driver to turn the adjustment bolt down until you hear the "click" of the switch. turn the z-axis to raise the head, power up, and "home" the z-axis. It should maybe require one or more adjustments, and it should be good to go, save for levelling the bed.

Aside from that and the extruder issues, the build was quite fun and very satisfying. Like completing a lego project or an ikea project. :)

Just need to get it printing. Woot!

Wing Wong, · Reply

Oh, will also be making use of the e-stop to add the z-axis probe for auto-levelling.

I see that the printrboard supports a thermister and heater for the hot bed, so just need to get a hot bed+glass and will be set for ABS.

Thanks for making a great kit with easy to upgrade components! Very awesome!

Wing Wong, · Reply

Thanks for all of the input Wing Wong. Glad to hear that you enjoyed the build. We are currently giving these instructions a polish. So, we will certainly take your comments, along with others on this thread into consideration as we revise.

If you end up adding a heated bed, be sure to step up your power supply. I don't believe that the laptop power supply that is included with the Simple kit is up to the task. We use larger ATX power for our other models with heated beds. Happy holidays and happy printing!

Printrbot Support,

Completed and already have my first couple of objects. a couple of additional comments.

1. Overall this was straightforward and a joy to build, bringing together 3 generations of my family.

2. it would be great to having written instructions detailing how to include the XL kit into the initial build.

3. A follow up document detailing calibration would be really helpful (maybe with links to objects, software, etc. -some of which is covered in the "Getting Started" guide.

3.5 The "Getting Started" guide is good, but could provide additional details for newcomers, for example, there are a number of settings, and I have set them and had some basic success, but would like to know how changing them would impact things, before just experimenting and wasting plastic. (e.g. skirts and brim settings, rectilinear fill, etc).

Gordon, · Reply

4. I think one of my first practical projects (though I am not sure when I will get to it, so I am putting the idea out there for anyone with the time and energy to do so) will be to replace the plastic tube connecting the Z axis to the rod with a printed part fitted on one side and screw-able on the other. Occasionally the zip-tie-ends will catch on a wire and jam up the works.

Gordon, · Reply

It looks like someone has already designed it (thanks to Richard Turnock for finding these on thingiverse!)


The link to the forums gives 404 site not found error.

Matthew Spurk, · Reply

Finished the build, ready to test it out.

Amazing engineering, folks.

Really fun to puzzle together, but you need a technical writer to at least vet these guides before you can expect anyone to follow them without a lot of deducing. I cut about 15 zip ties throughout.

I also lost a few bearings along the way-- hope the doesn't affect ease of motion.

nogginhead, · Reply

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